My steering
feels loose. Any ideas why?
My power steering feels stiff when I first start my car,
but then feels normal after I've driven the car awhile. How come?
Does the power steering fluid ever need to be changed?
When I'm driving down the highway, my car wants to pull to
one side. How come?
When I hit a bump, my car suddenly jerks to one side. Is
anything wrong?
My mechanic says my car needs ball joints. Please explain.
I feel a high speed shimmy in the steering wheel. What's
causing it?
Car pulls to one side while moving. Why?
The steering wheel is hard to turn. Why?
The car seems to wander down the road. What's happening?
The brake pedal vibrates. Why?
Tires wobble while driving. Why?
Hard steering. What is the problem?
Loose steering. What is the problem?
Noises while turning a corner. What is the problem?
Wheel shimmy exists. Why?
Steering wheel jerks. Why?
Power steering doesn't seem to be working. What's up?
Noises from the power steering unit. What is it?
|
| My steering
feels loose. Any ideas why? |
Answer:
The most common causes of steering looseness include worn
tie rod ends, a worn idler arm or center link (on vehicles
without rack and pinion steering), a worn steering gear
or a worn steering rack.
Normally, your steering wheel should have no more than about a quarter inch of play. Any
more means something is worn or loose and needs to be fixed. Warning: Don't put off having
your steering looked at because a failure of a critical component could cause loss of
steering control! The inner and outer tie rod ends should have no perceptible looseness.
Worn or loose tie rod ends are especially dangerous because if one pulls apart you'll lose
steering control. Worn tie rod ends can also cause rapid tire wear. If you have a
rear-wheel drive vehicle with conventional steering (not rack and pinion steering), the
idler arm should have no more than the specified amount of maximum play. Refer to a manual
for the specs and recommended procedure for checking it. Checking idler arm play usually
involves pulling on the arm with a specified force and measuring how much the arm
deflects. If your vehicle has a lot of miles on it, the steering gear or rack itself may
be worn. On conventional steering boxes, there's usually an adjustment screw that can be
used to take some of the slack out of the system. With rack and pinion steering, though,
adjustment is usually little help because the rack develops center wear. If the pinion is
adjusted to compensate, the rack may bind when turned to either side. The only cure for a
center wear condition is to replace the rack with a new one (an entire new rack assembly).
Sometimes the steering will feel loose because of a worn U-joint coupling in the steering
column. Loose or worn wheel bearings can also make the steering wander and feel loose. |
| Top |
| My power steering feels stiff when I first start my car, but then feels normal after I've driven the car awhile. How come? |
| Answer: This is called "morning sickness" and has nothing
to do with being pregnant. The condition is caused by
wear in the spool valve housing on certain power steering
racks -- notably GM front-wheel drive cars. When the car
is first started, the rack is cold and clearances in the
spool valve are at their greatest. Hydraulic pressure
from the power steering pump leaks past grooves worn in
the aluminum spool valve housing. This causes a loss of
pressure and increases steering effort. The steering feels
stiff with little or no power assist. As the car is driven,
the rack warms up. This decreases the clearances inside
the spool valve housing, which reduces the leakage past
the grooves. More pressure goes to where it is supposed
to go and the steering becomes easier as power assist
returns. The "fix" for this condition is to
replace the rack with a new one (preferably with a cast
iron spool valve housing) or a remanufactured rack that
has a stainless steel sleeve pressed into the aluminum
housing. |
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| Does the power steering fluid ever need to be changed? |
Answer: Not normally, but it should be if the steering rack or
pump are ever replaced. Under normal circumstances, the
fluid in the power steering system should last the life
of the vehicle (or the life of the major power steering
components, whichever comes first). But as the system
accumulates miles, microscopic particles of metal and
rubber can buildup in the fluid. These particles can act
like an abrasive and accelerate pump and gear wear, so
the fluid should be changed if the original pump or rack
has failed to prevent contaminating the new parts with
dirty fluid.
Check periodically: Even though the fluid in your power steering system does not normally
require changing, it's a good idea to check the fluid level periodically (say once a month
or when changing the engine oil and filter). If the level is low, add fluid as needed to
bring it up to the full level (hot or cold). Then inspect the hoses, pump and steering
gear for leaks. More than a few ounces of fluid in the rubber bellows of a power steering
rack indicates internal wear and leakage. Always use the type of fluid specified by the
vehicle manufacturer (Dexron II or a special blend of power steering fluid). |
| Top |
| When I'm driving down the highway, my car wants to pull to one side. How come? |
Answer: A steady steering pull or "lead" to one side
may have any of a number of causes. The most likely cause
is wheel misalignment. This may be due to rear wheel toe
or axle misalignment, front wheel camber misalignment,
too much cross camber or caster alignment (more than a
degree of difference side to side), or someone having
"aligned" the front wheels without the steering
wheel being properly centered beforehand. In any event,
it will probably be necessary to have the alignment checked
to diagnose and correct the problem -- unless one of the
following is causing the pull:
• An underinflated front tire on one side. Check tire pressures and
make sure they are the same side-to-side (no more than a couple of pounds of difference).
• Mismatched tires. Tires of different size, aspect ratio or even tread
pattern on one side can create enough of a difference in rolling resistance to cause a
pull.
• A weak or sagging spring. Measure and compare ride height on both
sides of your vehicle (measure at the fender openings). If one side is an inch or more
lower than the other side, chances are you have a spring that needs to be shimmed or
replaced.
• A dragging brake. This can be caused by a frozen or sticking disc
brake caliper that doesn't allow the pads to kick back out from the rotor or weak or
broken return springs in a drum brake that don't pull the shoes back from the drum.
Another possibility here might be a packing brake that isn't fully releasing on one side.
• An uneven load. If you, your significant other or a passenger is
causing your vehicle to lean to one side, it can cause the steering to lead in that
direction. Don't laugh, a few hundred extra pounds can make a big difference in a small
vehicle -- especially if the weight isn't evenly distributed side-to-side. If you can't do
anything about the extra weight, it is often possible to compensate by having the wheels
realigned with a "simulated" load positioned in the vehicle. Of course, then
your vehicle may lead in the opposite direction if the extra weight is removed.
• Excessive road crown. Roads are usually sloped (crowned) from the
center towards the sides for drainage. If you spend a lot of time driving on highly
crowned roads and find the constant lead to the outside shoulder annoying, you can have
the wheels realigned to compensate for the excessive crown. Adding or subtracting camber
from one wheel or the other to create a difference in the cross camber alignment of your
front wheels can counteract this kind of problem. |
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| When I hit a bump, my car suddenly jerks to one side. Is anything wrong? |
Answer:
Not normally, but it should be if the steering rack or
pump are ever replaced. Under normal circumstances, the
fluid in the power steering system should last the life
of the vehicle (or the life of the major power steering
components, whichever comes first). But as the system
accumulates miles, microscopic particles of metal and
rubber can buildup in the fluid. These particles can act
like an abrasive and accelerate pump and gear wear, so
the fluid should be changed if the original pump or rack
has failed to prevent contaminating the new parts with
dirty fluid.
Check periodically: Even though the fluid in your power steering system does not normally
require changing, it's a good idea to check the fluid level periodically (say once a month
or when changing the engine oil and filter). If the level is low, add fluid as needed to
bring it up to the full level (hot or cold). Then inspect the hoses, pump and steering
gear for leaks. More than a few ounces of fluid in the rubber bellows of a power steering
rack indicates internal wear and leakage. Always use the type of fluid specified by the
vehicle manufacturer (Dexron II or a special blend of power steering fluid). |
| Top |
| My mechanic says my car needs ball joints. Please explain. |
Answer: Ball joints are a part of your vehicle's suspension that
connects the steering knuckles to the control arms. A
ball joint is essentially a flexible ball and socket that
allows the suspension to move and at the same time the
wheels to steer. Cars and trucks without strut suspensions
typically have four of them (one upper and one lower on
each side). Cars and minivans with strut suspensions have
only two (one lower ball joint on each side). Some front-wheel
drive cars also have ball joints on the rear suspension.
Like any other suspension component, ball joints eventually
wear and become loose. Excessive play in the joint can
affect wheel alignment and tire wear. Loose joints can
also cause suspension noise (typically a "clunking"
sound when hitting a bump). Warning: If a ball joint fails,
the suspension can collapse causing a loss of control.
So don't put off having a bad set of joints replaced.
Joint inspection: Joints should be inspected before they're greased (since grease takes up
some of the slack in the joint). Ball joints are pretty easy to check, but each type
requires a different inspection procedure. Use the wrong procedure and you'll get
misleading results. The procedure that needs to be used depends on the location and
loading of the joint:
Lower load carrying ball joints are found on front- and rear-wheel drive vehicles where
the coil spring or torsion bar is on the lower control arm. Joints with built-in wear
indicators must be checked with the full weight of the vehicle on the tires on the shop
floor or on a drive-on style ramp -- not with the wheels up or the suspension supported by
jack stands. No measurements are required if a joint has a wear indicator because internal
play is indicated by the position of the grease fitting boss. The boss protrudes about
.050 inches on a new joint. As the joint wears, the boss recedes into the housing. The
joint is considered "good" as long as you can see or feel the edge of the boss
protruding from the housing. But if the top of the boss is flush or below the housing,
it's time to replace the joint.
On lower load carrying ball joints without a wear indicator, the joint is checked in the
unloaded condition with the wheel raised off the ground and the lower control arm
supported by a jack stand. A dial indicator is then used to measure play in one of two
directions: sideways (horizontal or radial play) or vertically (axial or up-and-down
play). The direction to measure depends on the application (refer to a manual for the
exact specs). Sideways play is measured with the indicator positioned against the inside
of the wheel rim near the joint. The wheel should be pushed in and out by hand to check
sideways play, and lifted with no more than 25 lbs. of force to check vertical play. Many
joints allow up to .250 in. of sideways (radial) play, but some allow no play or only .015
in. of play. Always refer to the vehicle manufacturer's specs. Vertical play is measured
with the dial indicator positioned against the knuckle stud nut or the joint housing. A
joint that has more than .050 in. of vertical play doesn't necessary require replacement
because the specs range from zero play to as much as .125 inch of play. The most common
mistake that's made here is to use too much pressure on a pry bar or to insert a pry bar
between the control arm and knuckle rather than under the wheel. Pry hard enough and any
joint may appear to be bad.
Lower follower nonloaded ball joints are found on two kinds of applications: RWD cars
where the spring is over the upper control arm, and vehicles with MacPherson strut
suspensions. On both applications the lower joint is checked with the wheel raised off the
ground hanging free (no stand under the lower control arm). Rock the wheel in and out by
hand. A good joint should show no movement.
Upper load carrying ball joints are found on vehicles where the spring or torsion bar is
on the upper control arm. Like the lower follower nonloaded ball joints, the upper joints
are checked in the unloaded condition with the wheels off the ground -- but with a wedge
or block between the frame and upper control arm to support the upper arm. On most
applications, any movement calls for replacement. But on some Fords, up to .250 in. of
radial play is allowed.
Upper follower nonleaded ball joints are also checked with the wheels off the ground but
with the lower control arm supported. Any movement usually calls for replacement.
Joint replacement: Any joint that exceeds the vehicle manufacturer's maximum allowable
wear needs to be replaced. The greater the amount of wear, the greater the urgency to
replace it. Ball joints are often replaced in complete sets, or at least in matched pairs
on both sides (both lowers or both uppers). This is because the joints on both sides of a
vehicle usually have the same amount of wear. If one is bad, the other usually is too.
Load carrying ball joints usually wear out before ones that don't carry a load, so it may
only be necessary to replace the loaded joints instead of the complete set. Replacing a
set of ball joints requires separating the control arms from the steering knuckles, a job
which can be difficult depending on the design and age of the vehicle. At the very least,
it usually requires a special "ball joint fork" tool to loosen the ball joint
stud from the knuckle. If this sounds like more of a job than you want to tackle, let a
professional do it the work. |
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| I feel a high speed shimmy in the steering wheel. What's causing it? |
| Answer:A high speed shimmy is usually caused by a wheel that's out of balance or a bent
wheel. The first thing to check for would be a bent wheel. Raise the front of the vehicle
off the ground and rotate each wheel by hand. If you see any sideways or in and out
movement of the wheel, it is bent and needs to be replaced. Warning: Although some people
claim they can straighten bent wheels, doing so is risky -- especially with aluminum alloy
wheels. Replacement is the safest option (but also expensive). If you don't see any
sideways movement in the wheel, it doesn't necessarily mean the wheel is straight. There
may be just enough sideways runout to cause a shimmy, but not enough to see. To find this
kind of problem, you'll need a dial indicator. More than about .050 inch of sideways
runout can be enough to cause a problem. If the wheels seem to be straight, have the
balance of both wheels checked (or rebalanced). If that fails to cure the shimmy, you may
have some kind of tire problem due to defective belt alignment or tire construction. Other
causes may include loose or improperly adjusted wheel bearings, insufficient caster
alignment (check and readjust alignment as needed), or a worn steering damper (on trucks
or other vehicles equipped with a steering stabilizer). |
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| Car pulls to one side while moving. Why? |
| Answer: While
you are driving down a road, the car tends to drift to one
side of the road. To keep the car straight, you must keep
the steering wheel firmly in position. This problem creates
a dangerous condition and normally appears gradually. Slight
drifting to one side is often overlooked, and only severe
pulling is noticed. The probable causes are: 1. All of the
car's tires do not have the same air pressure. 2. The wheels
are out of alignment. 3. One brake is dragging or isn't
releasing. 4. Loose steering parts and/or linkage. 5. The
car's tires are not worn evenly. |
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| The steering wheel is hard to turn. Why? |
| Answer: You
notice that it takes much more strength to turn the steering
wheel. It feels as if it is dragging on something. This
problem may occur gradually and get worse over time or it
may appear suddenly. The probable causes are: 1. Air pressure
on all of the car's tires is too low. 2. The wheels are
out of alignment. 3. The power steering gear or pump is
bad. 4. The fluid level in the power steering reservoir
is low. 5. The power steering drive belt is damaged or broken.
6. The steering gear needs to be lubricated or repaired. |
| Top |
| The car seems to wander down the road. What's happening? |
| Answer: As
you are driving, you notice that you must constantly correct
the direction of the car by turning the steering wheel.
The problem seems to increase, the faster you travel. This
problem may occur gradually and get worse over time or it
may appear suddenly. The probable causes are: 1. The car
is overloaded, or the weight on one side is much greater
than the weight on the other side. 2. The wheels are out
of alignment. 3. The car's springs are weak. 4. The steering
gear is out of adjustment or needs to be replaced. 5. The
front wheel bearings are out of adjustment or are severely
worn. |
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| The brake pedal vibrates. Why? |
| Answer: As
you press on the brake pedal, you feel a vibration or pulsation
from the pedal. It feels as though something is coming apart.
This is probably a serious problem, unless your car is equipped
with anti-lock brakes. If it does have anti-lock brakes,
the vibration or pulsation is normal for quick hard stops.
On cars without anti-lock brakes, the more the pedal vibrates,
the more serious the problem is. The problem seems to appear
suddenly, and it typically goes unnoticed until it is severe.
The probable causes are: 1. Warped brake rotors. 2. Loose
steering linkage or parts. 3. Loose wheel lug nuts. 4. Out-of-balance
wheel and tire assemblies. 5. Bent or damaged wheels. 6.
Severely damaged or worn tires. |
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| Tires wobble while driving. Why? |
| Answer: As
you drive the car, you feel a shake through the steering
wheel from the tires. A slight wobble means a slight problem.
However, a serious wobble indicates a more serious problem.
Most of the time this problem starts out as a slight vibration
and progresses to a serious wobble. The probable causes
are: 1. Tires need balancing. 2. Tires are worn. 3. The
wheel is bent or damaged. 4. The wheel lug nuts are loose.
5. There are worn or damaged steering parts. |
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| Hard steering. What is the problem? |
| Answer: You
notice it takes much more strength to turn the steering
wheel. This is especially noticed when you are trying to
park. The problem seems to be getting worse. The probable
causes are: 1. Tire pressures are uneven. 2. Your steering
linkage needs to be lubricated. 3. A part of the steering
linkage is damaged and doesn't not move freely. 4. Your
steering gear needs to be adjusted. 5. You need a front
wheel alignment. 6. You have a problem with the power steering
unit. |
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| Loose steering. What is the problem? |
| Answer: You notice that the steering wheel is very easy to move
and actually feels quite sloppy. It creates an uneasy feeling
on the highway because it seems you have no control of your
car. The problem seems to be getting worse. The probable
causes are: 1. Your steering linkage is worn and parts need
to be replaced. 2. Parts of the steering linkage are loose
and need to be tightened. 3. Your steering gear needs to
be adjusted. |
| Top |
| Noises while turning a corner. What is the problem? |
| Answer: You notice a knocking, clunking, and/or squeaking noise
while you turn a corner. Everything else seems to be fine
except for the noise. The problem seems to be getting worse
over time. The probable causes are: 1. Something is rubbing
against or hitting the steering column. 2. Your steering
linkage needs to be lubricated. 3. A part of the steering
linkage is loose or damaged and needs to be replaced. 4.
Your tires are hitting or rubbing against something. 5.
You have worn suspension pieces. |
| Top |
| Wheel shimmy exists. Why? |
| Answer:
You notice a side-to-side wobble in the steering wheel when
traveling at steady speeds. The vibration gets worse when
you are on an uneven road surface or after going over a
pot hole. The probable causes are: 1. Your tires and wheels
are out of balance. 2. Your tires don't have the correct
pressure. 3. Your tires are worn. 4. A part of the steering
linkage is loose or damaged and needs to be replaced. 5.
You have worn suspension pieces. |
| Top |
| Steering wheel jerks. Why? |
| Answer:As you are idling or moving slowly, you notice the steering wheel jerks or jumps. You
don't notice any other problem with the steering or the handling of the car. The problem
seems to be getting worse over time. The probable causes are: 1. The power steering belt
is loose. 2. The fluid level in the power steering pump is low. 3. The engine is idling
too low. 4. There is a problem with the power steering pump. 5. The steering linkage is
rubbing against something. |
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|
Power steering doesn't seem to be working. What's up? |
| Answer:It
takes a lot of effort to turn the steering wheel. In fact,
at low speeds you can hardly turn it. The problem is less
obvious at high speeds simply because you need to move the
steering wheel less at those speeds. The problem may have
occurred suddenly. The probable causes are: 1. No fluid
in the power steering pump. 2. Your power steering pump
is bad. 3. The drive belt for the power steering is broken.
4. The fluid in the system is contaminated. 5. There is
a leak in the power steering lines. 6. You have a steering
linkage problem. 7. Tire pressures are incorrect. |
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| Noises from the power steering unit. What is it? |
| Answer:You notice a whining or moaning from the steering when you turn the steering wheel all of
the way in one direction. Everything else seems to be fine except for the noise. The
problem seems to be getting worse over time. The probable causes are: 1. The power
steering drive belt is loose. 2. The fluid in the system has air in it. 3. The fluid in
the power steering pump is too low. 4. The mount for the power steering pump is loose or
damaged.
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