The transmission will not shift inot gears. Why?

Clunking from under the car when gears change. What's up.

Whirring from the front of the car that changes pitch with vehicle speed. What is this?

The transmission will not shift into gears. Why?

Red fluid under the car by the transmission. What is it?

Transmission overheats. Why?

There is a buzzing noise from the transmission. What is it?

Transmission makes a lot of noise. Why?

There is a scraping noise from the transmission. What is it?

Hard gear changes. Why?

Slow engagement of gears. What's happening?

Gear Shifting seems delayed. Why?

Shifting occurs too soon. Why?

Down shifting seems harsh. Why?

There is slippage between gear changes. Why?

Shifting into reverse is delayed. What's going on?

Clicking noise from transmission while in four wheel drive?

Answer: It depends. If your clutch has low miles on it (40,000 or less), chances are the slippage is due to one of two things: oil contamination or a misadjusted clutch linkage. If your clutch has a lot of miles on it (60,000 or more), chances are it's worn out and you need to replace it. To rule out oil contamination as a possible cause of slippage, check under the rear of the engine and the bellhousing for oil leaks. If you see oil on the oil pan or bellhousing, the rear main oil seal is probably leaking. Other leak points include manifold and valve cover gaskets at the back of the engine, and the transmission input shaft seal.

If you've got an oil leak, don't replace the clutch until you've fixed the leak. Once the clutch linings have been contaminated by oil, there's no way to clean them. Replacing the clutch disk is the only way to restore proper clutch operation. If you don't have a leak, check the linkage adjustment. Most cars with a cable linkage have an automatic adjusting mechanism that's supposed to maintain proper clearances. If anything, the cable would be too loose rather than too tight. But if someone has been playing around with the linkage adjustment, they may have gotten it too tight. The same goes for vehicles with hydraulic linkages. There's no way this type of linkage can cause slippage unless it is misadjusted by someone.

That leaves the clutch itself. Slippage can be caused by two things: worn facings or loss of spring tension in the pressure plate. Unless the clutch really has been abused or has a lot of miles on it, it's unlikely the pressure plate is weak. Normal wear reduces the thickness of the facings on the clutch disk, which in turn reduces the clamping force the pressure plate can apply to squeeze the disk against the flywheel. Replacing the clutch disk should cure the problem.

Even so, the clutch and flywheel should be carefully inspected when the parts are removed. If the pressure plate is worn or damaged, you'll need to replace that, too. Most experts recommend having the flywheel refaced to restore the friction surface. You can probably get by without refacing the flywheel -- but only if the flywheel is flat, smooth, clean and uncracked. Any grooves, heat discoloration, cracking or other damage would call for resurfacing or replacing the flywheel.

Answer: You can if you have the proper tools and know-how. Changing a clutch is a big job on a rear-wheel drive car or truck, and an even tougher job on a front-wheel drive car or minivan. On a rear-wheel drive vehicle, the driveshaft, transmission and bellhousing have to be removed from underneath the vehicle to get at the clutch. The clutch can then be unbolted from the flywheel and replaced. Resurfacing the flywheel is recommended -- and required if the flywheel is warped, grooved, badly worn, heat discolored and/or contaminated with grease or oil. That means the flywheel has to come out, too. If the flywheel is cracked, it should be replaced. In addition to replacing the clutch, a new throw-out bearing is also recommended. Considering the labor involved to tear everything apart, it's risky to reuse an old throw-out bearing. It may not be noisy now, but it's hard to tell how many miles it might have left in it. The pilot bushing in the end of the crankshaft that supports the transmission input shaft should also be inspected. Replacement is recommended if your vehicle has a lot of miles on it. Reinstalling the transmission is the most difficult part of the job because the transmission is heavy (which means you'll need a floor or transmission jack, or a pair of strong arms). The clutch must also be perfectly aligned (with a pilot tool) so the transmission input shaft will slip into place, once everything has been bolted together. With front-wheel drive, replacing the clutch is even more difficult because it involves pulling the engine or dropping the transaxle (both of which are major undertakings because of all the disassembly that's involved). For this, you'll need an engine hoist to pull the engine or a hoist or beam to support the engine from above while the transaxle comes out.

Answer: Probably. Chattering and jerking can be caused by oil contaminated clutch linings (due to an oil leak on the back of the engine, usually the rear main crankshaft seal), or by damage to the clutch itself. For the clutch to engage smoothly, the pressure plate must come down evenly on the disc. In other words, the surface of the pressure plate must be parallel to the flywheel otherwise it won't engage smoothly. If the flywheel is warped (which can happen as a result of overheating and abuse), it can make the clutch grab. On rare occasion, a manufacturing defect in a new or rebuilt clutch can cause uneven engagement as can improper installation of the clutch. If someone allows the weight of the transmission to "hang" on the clutch, it can bend the clutch disk causing shudder, grabbing or chattering. Damaged splines on the transmission shaft can cause the clutch disk to hang up and grab. Another overlooked cause may be loose or broken motor mounts.

Answer: You push on the clutch pedal, and it drops to the floor. With the pedal to the floor, you still can't change gears. This problem may occur suddenly on some cars. On others changing gears may become more difficult each time you shift until you can't get it into gear.

The probable causes are:

1. The clutch cable is broken.

2. The clutch cable is disconnected.

3. There is no fluid in the hydraulic clutch circuit.

4. There is a leak in the hydraulic clutch circuit.

Answer: You push on the clutch pedal, but the gearshift will not move, or it is resistant to movement. Do not force the shifter to move, and do not attempt to drive the car. Have the car towed. This problem normally occurs suddenly.

The probable causes are:

1. The shift linkage is binding on something.

2. There are internal problems in the transmission.

3. The clutch may not be disengaging.

Answer: When you step on the clutch and shift, the engine will speed up, but the car doesn't. It seems like the clutch is slipping and is not changing gears properly. This problem becomes apparent gradually and gets worse over time. This should not be ignored, as continued slippage will result in more damage to the clutch assembly.

The probable causes are:

1. The clutch needs to be adjusted.

2. The clutch is worn.

3. The clutch is covered with oil.

4. The clutch linkage is binding.

Answer: You are able to move the clutch pedal and gearshift normally. However, when you move the gearshift into a gear and release the clutch, a grinding noise is heard and a vibration is felt through the gearshift. In most cases, you will be able to change gears. This problem gradually becomes apparent and gets worse over time. This problem should not be ignored as the grinding will cause damage to the transmission.
The probable causes are:

1. The clutch needs to be adjusted.

2. The clutch is worn.

3. There is internal damage to the transmission.

4. The shift linkage needs to be adjusted.

Answer: You are able to shift into gear easily. However, when you press on the gas pedal or let off of it, the gearshift jumps into the neutral position, and the transmission is no longer in gear. This problem becomes worse and happens more frequently over time.
The probable causes are:

1. There is internal damage to the transmission.

2. The shift linkage needs to be adjusted.

Answer: Description of problem: You can move the car in drive and reverse, but you can't accelerate quickly. Instead, you hear an excessive amount of noise from the engine. It seems the engine is running fast enough to be breaking the speed limit. Do not make the engine work that hard. The car can be driven slowly, but the problem should be repaired as soon as possible. This problem normally occurs gradually (with up shifting taking place later and later), although it may not be noticeable until it stops working.

Probable Causes:

1. The gear shift linkage is binding.

2. There are internal transmission problems.

3. The throttle cable to the transmission is broken or disconnected.

4. The vacuum modulator on the transmission is faulty, or the vacuum line is disconnected.

5. The electronic transmission control circuit may be faulty.

Answer: When you shift gears (with an automatic or manual transmission), you feel a slight pause, then hear a clunk. The can sound like it is coming from the rear or front of the car. The noise may be evident when shifting from reverse to neutral, neutral to forward, or forward to reverse. The problem begins gradually and worsens with use. The probable causes are: 1. Worn CV-joints. 2. Worn U-joints. 3. The differential unit may have too much backlash. 4. The engine's idle speed may be set too high.

Answer: Most bumpers on late model cars are what they call "composite" bumpers. Instead of a massive hunk of chrome plated steel, the bumper has become an integral part of the car's "energy management" system. The outer covering is usually colored plastic designed to blend in smoothly with the lines of the vehicle (for enhanced aerodynamics as well as esthetics). Underneath the soft outer skin may be a waffle-like layer of plastic honeycomb, styrofoam, and/or a fiberglass or aluminum bar. When such a bumper takes a minor bump, the "give" in the soft plastic outer skin usually absorbs it without causing any visible damage. But when it takes a harder hit, the plastic eggcrate, styrofoam or reinforcing bar may be heavily damaged -- yet you can't see the damage from the outside. If you crawl under the car and look up behind the bumper cover you may see broken bits of plastic hanging down or other obvious damage. In many cases the only way to truly evaluate the extent of the damage is to remove the outer skin. Why do the auto makers make bumpers this way? Because that's the style today. Chrome bumpers are out. Molded, soft bumpers are in.

But there's more to it than that. Government crash standards require vehicles to be capable of sustaining minimum impacts when tested against solid barriers. The standards are really a joke because many that supposedly meet the government standard result in hundreds and sometimes thousands of rupees of damage in minor accidents. The reason this happens is because the bumpers are designed to self-destruct and absorb energy in a collision -- which is just the opposite thinking from the purpose bumpers originally served which was to protect the vehicle, not necessarily the occupants.

Answer: Description of problem: You start the car and move the gear selector to move the car. Nothing happens. You don't feel the engagement of the transmission, nor do you hear any strange noises.This problem usually occurs suddenly.

Probable Causes:

1. The gear shift linkage is broken.

2. There are internal transmission problems.

Answer: When the car has been parked for several hours, you notice red fluid under it. You also notice that the transmission fluid level is always low. This problem needs to be corrected soon, not only to stop messing up everyone's driveway, but also to prevent serious transmission problems in the future. This problem may appear gradually so it often goes unnoticed. The probable causes are: 1. Your torque converter is leaking. 2. The transmission's oil pump seals are bad. 3. The transmission cooler lines are loose or damaged. 4. Your oil pan is not tightened properly, or the gasket is bad. 5. Your transmission filler tube is loose or damaged. 6. The transmission case is damaged or is porous. 7. A transmission gasket or seal is leaking.

Answer: Description of problem:

You notice a smell from the transmission after you have driven it for awhile. You may also notice some slippage while driving it. When you check the fluid level of the transmission, the fluid smells burnt.

Probable Causes:

1. The fluid level in the transmission is low.

2. The transmission's oil vents are clogged with dirt or undercoating.

3. Your transmission oil cooler is bad.

4. The thermostat in your transmission is bad.

5. The wrong type of fluid was put in your transmission, or the fluid is contaminated.

6. There is an internal problem in the transmission.

7. Your transmission fluid is clogged and needs to be replaced.

8. You have an engine problem.

Answer: Description of problem:

You notice a buzzing noise from the car whenever you start to move forward or in reverse. The noise is not there when you have the car in park or neutral, and it seems to go away after the car has been driven a while or when you are moving at higher speeds. The problem seems to occur more regularly.

Probable Causes:

1. The transmission's fluid level is low.

2. The fluid in your transmission is contaminated.

3. You have an internal problem in the transmission.

4. Your torque converter is bad.

Answer: Description of problem:

You notice that whenever you are driving, a noise (sort of a groaning or grinding noise) is coming from your transmission. The noise is not there when you have the car in park or neutral, and it seems to go away after the car has been driven awhile or when you are moving at higher speeds. The problem seems to occur more regularly.

Probable Causes:

1. The transmission's fluid level is low.

2. The fluid in your transmission is contaminated.

3. The shift linkage for your transmission needs to be adjusted.

4. You have an internal problem in the transmission.

5. The transmission's oil cooler lines are vibrating against the frame or body of the car.

Answer: Description of problem:

You notice a scraping, grating, or growling noise from the car whenever you start to move forward or in reverse. The noise seems to get worse the longer you drive the car. The noise is not there when you have the car in park or neutral. You don't notice any other problems with the transmission, but you will notice other problems if you ignore the noise for too long.

Probable Causes:

1. The transmission's fluid level is low.

2. The fluid in your transmission is contaminated.

3. You have an internal problem in the transmission.

4. Your torque converter is bad.

5. The transmission's oil filter is clogged.

6. Your flexplate (flywheel) is loose or damaged.

Answer: Whenever you place the transmission into gear when the engine is warm, you notice a clunk or a jarring motion. Sometimes, the change of gears while on the road feels very harsh and immediate. Normally you hardly notice the transmission changing gears, but now you do.
The probable causes are:

1. The transmission fluid level is low.

2. The fluid in your transmission is contaminated.

3. You have an internal problem in the transmission.

4. The idle speed of your engine is too high.

5. You have worn CV- or U-joints.

6. The throttle linkage for the transmission is out of adjustment or damaged.

Answer: Whenever you place the transmission into gear when the engine is warm, the transmission takes awhile to engage into a gear. You don't notice any other problem with the transmission. Sometimes you can speed up the engagement by pressing on the gas pedal. The transmission may engage but with a clunk.
The probable causes are:

1. The transmission's fluid level is low.

2. You have an internal problem in the transmission.

3. The idle speed of your engine is wrong.

4. Your transmission filter is clogged.

5. The throttle linkage for the transmission is out of adjustment or damaged.

Answer: As you are driving your car, you notice the transmission stays in one gear much longer than it did before. The feel of the shift seems normal, but it takes too long to shift. The problem is noticeable because you hear the engine more as it runs faster before the transmission changes gear. You don't notice any other problem with the transmission. Sometimes you can speed up the engagement by pressing on or letting off of the gas pedal. Then the transmission may finally change gears.
The probable causes are:

1. The throttle linkage for the transmission is out of adjustment or damaged.

2. You have an internal problem in the transmission.

3. You have a problem with the engine.

4. There is a problem with the electrical controls for your transmission.

5. Your transmission filter is clogged.

Answer: As you are driving your car, you notice the transmission quickly changes from one gear to another. The feel of the shift seems normal. But as it is changing gears, you notice a lack of power. You don't notice any other problem with the transmission. Sometimes you can delay the change of gears by pressing on the gas pedal.
The probable causes are:

1. The fluid level in the transmission is too high.

2. The throttle linkage for the transmission is out of adjustment or damaged.

3. You have an internal problem in the transmission.

4. There is a problem with the electrical controls for your transmission.

Answer: Whenever you let off the gas pedal after driving some time, the transmission seems to jerk into a lower gear. You especially notice the harshness of the shift when you press on the gas pedal for "passing gear." Passing gear is really the next lowest gear for the transmission. The transmission downshifts to provide more power for passing. Harsh downshifting is not good and is not normal. You don't notice any other problem with the transmission.
The probable causes are:

1. The throttle linkage for the transmission is out of adjustment or damaged.

2. The fluid level in your transmission is incorrect.

3. You have an internal problem in the transmission.

4. You have a problem with the engine.

5. There is a problem with the electrical controls for your transmission.

Answer: As you are driving your car, you notice the engine speeding up between transmission gear changes. The problem is more noticeable the more you are pressing on the gas pedal. You also notice the car isn't gaining any speed during this gear changes. Once in gear, the transmission seems to work fine.
The probable causes are:

1. The fluid in your transmission is too low.

2. You have an internal problem in the transmission.

3. There is a problem with the electrical controls for your transmission.

4. Your transmission filter is clogged.

Answer: Everything about your transmission is fine except when you try to back up your car. Then there is a delay before the transmission shifts into reverse. This doesn't happen in any forward gear.
The probable causes are:

1. The transmission's fluid level is too low.

2. You have an internal problem in the transmission.

3. The transmission's fluid is dirty and contaminated.

4. Your transmission filter is clogged.

Answer: Description of problem:

Everything is fine until you shift into four wheel drive and you hear a lot of clicking and clacking from the transmission. You may even feel the noise through the floor or through the gearshift. The noise goes away when you put the transmission back into two wheel drive.

Probable Causes:

1. The fluid level in your transfer case is low.

2. The final drive chain in your transfer case is stretched or damaged.

3. You have an internal problem in the transfer case.

4. Your front drive shaft or axle needs repair.