As
you I look over my car, I see that the paint in some or all areas is falling
or flaking off. What gives ?
Answer:The
problem may be in a few small areas like around the windows or wheels.
The problem may also be on large areas like the trunk, hood, and/or roof.
The problem seems to get worse every day. 1. If the car has been repainted,
the new paint didn't stick well to the old. This could be caused by moisture,
old wax, or dirt between the two layers of paint. 2. Some cars in recent
years were colored with something that approached paint but really wasn't.
This coloring didn't last long and fell off. If you are the original owner,
contact your dealership and see if the manufacturer had a recall campaign
on the paint situation
Is
it better to use a "wax" or a "sealer" to protect my
car's finish ?
Answer:
Both types of products
will protect your paint against moisture, ozone and ultraviolet. Sealers,
which are typically petroleum based and contain silicones, usually last
much longer (up to a year or more) than ordinary wax. But the distinction
between these two products is blurring because many waxes now contain
silicone and other ingredients designed to extend protection. A wax or
sealer that is applied by rubbing it on your car's finish will always
give you better protection than a product that's sprayed on at a car wash.
Car wash waxes give a nice temporary shine, but don't provide lasting
protection. When choosing a wax or sealer, choose one that's "right"
for your vehicle's finish. Most newer cars and trucks have what's called
a "base coat, clear coat" finish. Over the base color coat of
paint is a layer of clear paint to provide added shine and protection.
Some car makes say it isn't really necessary to wax or seal a base coat,
clear coat paint job. But it certainly isn't going to hurt anything --
provided you use a product that is designed for this type of finish. Caution:
Wax or sealer for a base coat, clear coat finish should contain no abrasives
or polish. Abrasives are often added to wax to remove the oxidized layer
from the surface of the paint. When the wax is applied, it has a polishing
effect that helps shines up dull, faded paint. It works great on solid
color finishes, but not clear coated finishes because it scratches and
dulls the clear coat.
Applying wax
& sealer: Always follow the instructions that come with the product.
Wash and dry your vehicle before you wax it. Don't wax it in the direct
sun during the heat of the day. Wax in in the shade, or early in the morning
or late in the day when the sun isn't so hot. Use a clean, soft, damp
rag or sponge to apply the wax or sealer. Avoid getting wax or sealer
on the glass or on matte black finished moldings or paint, or on a vinyl
roof. Apply wax to a small area (a door, fender, half the hood, etc.),
then let it dry before wiping and buffing. Then move on to the next area
and repeat until the job is done. If you try to do the whole car or too
large an area, the wax or sealer may have too much drying time and be
difficult to wipe or buff off. Elbow grease works best. Power buffers
are faster, but require skill to do a really nice job. Caution: If using
a wax or polish that contains an abrasive, excessive force on a power
buffer may buff right through the finish! You shouldn't have to repeat
the job until water no longer beads up on the finish when your vehicle
is wet.
Answer:
As you look over your car, you see that the paint in some or all areas
is dull, sort of boring. Even after washing the car, the finish is dull.
You will probably find that if you wax the paint, it will be dull in a
very short while. The probable causes are: 1. There is a build-up of old
wax on the paint. 2. The paint is oxidized. 3. The paint is old and dull
simply because it has been exposed (unprotected by wax) to the sun and
air.
When
I hit a bump, my car suddenly jerks to one side. Is anything wrong ?
Answer:
Not normally, but it should be if the steering rack or pump are ever replaced.
Under normal circumstances, the fluid in the power steering system should
last the life of the vehicle (or the life of the major power steering
components, whichever comes first). But as the system accumulates miles,
microscopic particles of metal and rubber can buildup in the fluid. These
particles can act like an abrasive and accelerate pump and gear wear,
so the fluid should be changed if the original pump or rack has failed
to prevent contaminating the new parts with dirty fluid.
Check
periodically: Even though the fluid in your power steering system does
not normally requsire changing, it's a good idea to check the fluid level
periodically (say once a month or when changing the engine oil and filter).
If the level is low, add fluid as needed to bring it up to the full level
(hot or cold). Then inspect the hoses, pump and steering gear for leaks.
More than a few ounces of fluid in the rubber bellows of a power steering
rack indicates internal wear and leakage. Always use the type of fluid
specified by the vehicle manufacturer (Dexron II or a special blend of
power steering fluid).
Is
my dashboard in danger of cracking in the heat ?
Answer:Cover the dashboard with a piece of thick material
to insulate th dashboard. You could also open the windows marginally to
let hot air space escape. Covering the front wind screen with heavy cloth
also help.
