Preamble

Having surfed through the basics of a Car’s Steering System, the problems that may still arise and the need for Wheel Balancing/Alignment, in this concluding part we shall glance through what else can be in store for an average motorist………

It’s quite commonly experienced that a car involved in a bad collision doesn’t cruise straight or corner properly as before - even after claimed ‘perfect’ repairs - at astronomical costs sometimes. Here’s how you can save yourself from literally being taken for a ride – following a real life QnA……..
(i) Initial Query
A few days back I had an accident. My Santro hit a pole and it's front left portion was damaged as it had a hit on the front left wheel also. Complete Suspension Arm, Link Assy., Front Stabilizer had to be replaced. But I find now that when the steering is kept straight, with hands off the car goes slightly to the left side. The steering has to be kept tilted slightly clockwise to keep the car moving straight.
I would like to know what could be the probable reason for this. Is it because of wheel alignment or it has something to do with the Chassis/LH dent - that I was told has been fixed. I need your advice.

(ii) My Initial Reply
To me it’s somewhat obvious that the ‘Steering Geometry’ of your Car is still upset and the main offenders could be :

1) Incorrect 'toe-in'/Wheel alignment.

2) The LH 'Wheel Base' being shorter than the RH one, by more than 5 mm tolerance that's permissible. 'Wheel base' is the ‘Centre to Centre’ distance between the front and the rear wheels.

3) The LH 'Camber' setting not being within the specified range. FYI, 'Camber' is the inclination of the Wheel to the vertical and for a Car like Santro, it's (+) 0.5 Degree to (+) 1.0 Degree. (+) means its lower (road contact) end is inwards to the Car and correspondingly, the top end is outwards. If it becomes zero or (-), the Car will pull to that side even if (1) & (2) above are within limits.

Please take these up with your Garage let me know whether your problem has been solved.

(iii) Subsequent Response

Thank you very much for your reply. I was anxious to know about it before visiting the garage. It was due to incorrect 'toe -in' and is adjusted now.

(iv) My final reply.

Although you say that the defect stands corrected via a toe-in reset, I'll take it with a pinch of Salt - from what I have just learnt from my own experience.

Here's what you can do with the help of a friend, if so DIY inclined :

1) Park the Car on a level road.

2) Take at least 3-meter long measuring tape. Get your friend to hold its beginning at the forward edge of the rear RH wheel RIM, along its horizontal center line.

3) You take the other end and measure accurately the distance between (2) and the similar rear edge of the front left wheel rim.

4) Repeat the exercise on the other (RH) side of the Car.

5) The difference between the two readings should not be more than 5 mm. If it is so, confront your Garage for unsatisfactory repairs, which will show-up sooner than later in accelerated FL Tyre wear.

6) There is another and simpler way of ascertaining the same thing, provided you can find a level stretch of reasonably traffic free road. Accelerate the car to about 50 kph and shift to neutral and let it coast of its own. Let go of the Steering Wheel for a while. If the Car was otherwise cruising straight 'under power' starts to drift leftwards under such 'coasting', your left side wheelbase is shorter than the right side, beyond permissible tolerance.

2) On taking Care of your Wheels and on choosing Tyres

Query :

Which tyres would you recommend for my Maruti Esteem car? My driving is mainly in the city with occasional trips to Pune & Panchgani.

Response :

Tyres play a crucial role in the overall satisfactory performance of a car, including fuel efficiency - assuming all other parameters are in their proper places.

For your kind of duty, I'd recommend that you stick to the OE Specs i.e.
"155/80-R13". Of the various brands available in the market, I find 'Bridgestone' a good value for money, from their Ride Quality AND 'Tread Noise' points of view.
'JK Ultima' is also quite good.

Besides, whatever be their make, you must also ensure the following :

i) That they are atleast "T" Rated - given 120 kmph+ sustained cruising speeds now afforded by most 'Express Ways'.

ii) ALL the 5-wheels must be in good 'Dynamic Balance' all the time. It's a fallacy that the Rear/Spare ones need not be balanced.

iii) Besides above, immediately after fitting a new Set, you must get a "4-Wheel Alignment" done at a reliable place, preferably having the 'Infrared' type of Computerised M/C - as opposed to the now obsolete 'String' Type. In normal course of usage, it's worthwhile to get the same redone every 10,000 km to get max pleasure/life out of one's Tyres.

iv) Last but not the least, you should have your own good quality and easy to read 'Dial Type' Tyre Pressure Gauge (available at most Tyre/Accessories Shops) and never rely on the wayside ones. The TP's given on the Driver Side/'B' Pillar Sticker are "When Cold". This means BEFORE you start Rolling. Since the latter is some what impractical, here's what you can do to overcome this :

a) Buy yourself a good foot pump or better still a Battery operated one, freely available at above shops for ~ Rs: 500/-, and do the exercise at home atleast once a fortnight before you roll off. These can be carried in the Car all the time, as you never know when you may need them.

b) If not interested in (a), then inflate your tyres to "+10%" of the recommended pressure if checking at a Wayside Facility BUT use your own Gauge, after having rolled a few kms to get there. This will more or less ensure that they are 'down' to the correct levels when cold, the next morning.

c) You should check/correct your tyre pressures once a week.

I hope the foregoing will be of interest and use to you and your friends for all times to come.