Preamble: In Part-I we explored the types of Systems in vogue and how they compliment each other.

In Part-II, we shall delve deeper into the various causes and cures for ‘true’ Steering Rattles.
1) Identifying Steering Rattles:
Having understood the various Suspension and Stering systems so far, now the real crunch lies in identifying the source of such rattles as more often than not, with wear and tear setting in, a steering rattle gets sort of ‘progressive’ i.e. it can ‘shake’ other members of the system into rattling which on their own may not !

Having seen the build-up of a typical Rack and pinion Steering System as in sketches above, it follows that rattles in them can originate from one or more of its vulnerable locations. Here’s how one can systematically analyse them:

i) Tie-rod end/Rack ball joint:

Premature wear into these can set in by ignoring the need to have all the five Wheels in good ‘dynamic balance’ all the time. This is covered in greater details in another article. This can be easily checked out by hoisting the vehicle on a 2-post lift and ‘yawing’ each front wheel horizontally - to ‘feel’ if there’s any slack around them.

ii) Rack and/or Pinion wear:

This again is a consequence of neglecting to keep one’s wheels in good balance all the times. You can check it out yourself by – a) parking the vehicle with wheels ‘st-ahead’ on a level ground and b) standing out side the driver side, gently rocking the steering wheel. If there’s no slack per (i) above, then if the slightest of stg wheel motion doesn’t reflect into front wheels motion, it’s an indication of excessive slack between the rack and pinion. If it cannot be rectified by suitably tightening the rack ‘damper-bush’, the only remedy is to replace both with genuine parts at one go.

iii) Rack ‘Bush’ Rattles:

These are ‘softer’ in nature and can be easily pinned down by – a) Parking the car on a level ground with engine off and b) ‘rocking’ the stg wheel gently. If one can hear soft thuds from the LHS end of the car even while sitting in the driver seat, the rack bush is the culprit and the only way to get rid of it is to replace with a genuine spare part.

iv) St Column Rattles:

These are relatively easier to identify as one can feel them as ‘metallic’ in nature and originating within the column – may be extending upto the pinion. Since most Cars’ stg columns now a days have ball bearings at its stg shaft ends, the main culprit of such noises is invariably the one or more of the ‘universal joints’ deployed between the steering wheel and the rack-pinion.

This malady can be set right by suitably ‘tensioning’ the stg column as follows:

i) Loosen the st column holding 2x bolts under the Dash Board.

ii) The guy who did this now sits on the Driver Seat and the other gets in the behind him in the rear - to pull-up the St wheel with both his hands as far as he can.

iii) While he holds it pulled to max, the DS guy locks the loosened bolts under (1) above.

iv) Thereafter, the various Universal Joint Lock Bolts need to be checked and tightened as well.

With the foregoing trouble-shoot, most steering rattles can be overcome with lasting success. However if still no go, one is left with little or no choice but to have one’s steering system suitably overhauled, including replacement of all the wear prone parts at one go.

Cutting corners here is not advisable as otherwise, a half-worn part which was otherwise silent will now start rattling due to greater thrusts on it from the replaced/new parts !

2) Stiff Steering:

Before we conclude this session, let’s explore another common malady – afflicting some times cars as young as 3-yrs/30 kkm. This, however, assumes that the Car’s wheel alignment is in order and the tyres are not under inflated.

With the present ‘greaseless’ or ‘lubricated for life’ designs of the various ball joints that comprise a steering system, their initial or sealed lubrication is hardly effective beyond 2-3 years in the Indian context.

Professional garages in their own commercial interest will advise their replacement at a substantial cost but a tried and tested ‘home remedy’ can be quite effective and long lasting. It’s relatively simple for a DIY person but others not so inclined can also have the treatment done under their supervision using the services of a friendly neighbourhood mechanic.

Here’s what one can do – armed with ½ a litre of fresh Gear Oil, a 2 ml hypodermic syringe with a Veterinary Needle and a ‘plunger type’ Oil Can :

i) Turn the steering to full lock position – either LH or RH. Fill the syringe to full and pierce the needle into the rubber boot of the tie rod end far enough to reach the metal inside – as in the pic alongside. Squeeze-in 1 ml of oil into it and quickly withdraw.

ii) Repeat the procedure on the Suspension Lower Arm ball joint – as in the pic below :

Repeat the above on the other side 2-ball Joints.

Arm yourself now with the Oil Can filled to the brim and turn the rh wheel to full inside lock. Remove/slide forward the retaining steel clip of the rack rubber bellow-boot and insert the Oil Can nozzle to an inch or so inside.

Squirt-in about 100 ml of gear oil into the boot.

Repeat the above procedure on the lhs.

Take the Car for a short spin now, to turn the steering from lock to lock as many times as possible. This will facilitate the oils to reach all over the moving surfaces and will thus make a lot of difference to the earlier stiffness.

If the foregoing exercise doesn’t help much, then it can be safely concluded that the front Strut top bearings need refurbishing and that’d call for professional assistance – including atleast half a day’s down time.

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