| Preamble
Besides audible noises, in any car some ‘vibrations’ are inevitable.
These are defined as ‘noises’ that can be ‘felt but
not heard’ – though with ongoing advances in technology today’s
cars are a lot ‘smoother’ than their decade old predecessors.
Unfortunately, it can be difficult for an average owner-driver/passenger
to distinguish between normal or abnormal vibrations. So let’s try
and explore them.
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Causes of Vibration
It’s
elementry physics that any rotating mass will vibrate if its weight is
not evenly distributed along its length, width AND height around its ‘axis
of rotation’. The ‘intensity’ of such vibrations is
directly proportional to degree of uneven weight around axis of rotation
and its ‘frequency’ in direct relation to its speed of rotation/‘rpm’.
If vibrations are not contained to ‘safe’ levels, ‘metal-fatigue’
sets in a machine like cancer and eventually leads to its wreckage.
Prime source of vibrations
in any car is its engine (we’re not talking of diesels here !),
followed by wheels and road undulations transmitted to its body by its
suspension. Let’s look at each of them.
The
Engine
The ‘reciprocating’
nature of pistons’ movement in an engine is converted to rotary
one of its Flywheel by the ‘Crankshaft’, which is linked to
them by ‘Connecting Rods’. Therefore, unless each one of these
‘constituents’ is individually well balanced over the entire
operating speed range of the engine, it will be prone to excessive vibrations.
Despite, some vibrations
are inevitable. These are ‘damped-out’ by ‘foundations’
between car body and engine/gearbox. Such foundations are crafted out
of suitable grades of rubber fused on metal ‘anchors’ but
in more expensive cars, ‘hydraulic’ foundations have become
a norm.
However, even a well
designed engine can vibrate/felt at the steering if – i) its ‘idling
speed’ is below normal, ii) it’s over loaded at any speed
due to inappropriate gear selection, iii) its foundations are damaged
or misaligned, and iv) if one or more of its cylinders is not producing
right amount of power compared to others – either due to fuel starvation,
unsatisfactory spark plugs/‘HT’ leads, or premature compression
loss due to piston/rings or valve failure.
Wheels
Until the
advent of Maruti-800 in mid ‘80s, the concept of ‘wheel balancing’
was relatively unknown in India and confined to some speciality garages
in Metro’s mostly for ‘imported’ cars. A wheel being
an ‘assembly’ of its ‘rim’, tyre/tube, is invariably
unbalanced to some degree even when brand new coz of permissible manufacturing
‘tolerances’ of its constituents.
And when the wheel
diameters get smaller, their ‘rpm’ for a given road speed
goes up compared to larger dia ones of yore. Given the overall ‘lightness’
of cars nowadays incl its suspension members/steering links, such unbalance
in wheels produces unwanted vibrations in an otherwise ‘smooth’
car. Worse still, it makes the steering ‘wobble’ at higher
speeds, depending upon extent of unbalance in them.
It’s worthwhile
to remember that a wheel once ‘balanced’ won’t stay
so for all times to come coz of daily and uneven wear going on the tyres
due to accelerating/braking/cornering etc. Worse still, as the ‘balancing
weights’ are ‘clip-on’ or ‘stuck-on’ types,
they can and do fall off for many reasons. So it’s advisable to
get one’s wheels re-balanced, say, every 5,000 kms in our conditions.
Further, it’s
a popular misconception that only front wheels need re-balancing coz their
deterioration immediately reflects as steering wobble. Nothing could be
farther from truth coz any unbalance in the rear ones, even if not felt
as such, resultant vibrations will certainly eat into lives of rear suspension
bushes, shock-absorbers AND wheel bearings.
Like wise for Stepney
– for simple reason that one may need it any time upfront too and
then if it’s unbalanced, one’ll have a wobbly steering damaging
the front suspension/wheel bearings/steering linkages all the way home/till
re-balanced.
From this point of
view, it makes a lot of sense to have a wheel re-balanced immediately
after puncture repairs before stowing away as spare, even if it was balanced
only recently/before going flat. For once a tyre is dismounted from its
rim, it can hardly ever be put back in same position. Besides, while doing
so, some existing balance weights inevitably get dislodged from their
earlier positions.
A finer nuance towards
need to have one’s all the 5-wheels in good balance all the time
is that if they’re not, the front ones will inevitably wobble a
bit even if not perceptible at the steering wheel and consequently, car’s
‘rolling’ resistance and hence fuel consumption stand to go
up !
Suspension
From foregoing, it
can be visualised that well-balanced wheels can add significantly to lives
of a car’s original suspension and steering gear. However, given
our road conditions, a car’s suspension has the most arduous task
to perform. Any flaws in it by way of worn out bushes, ball joints, shock
absorbers can lead to abnormal vibrations even on reasonably good roads
– by way of excessive/‘bouncy’ suspension ‘travel’
and resultant uneven tyre wear. The latter, once set in, is impossible
to ‘iron-out’ even by completely re-furbishing the entire
suspension. So it’s of great importance keep a close watch on one’s
suspension before it’s too late.
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