14) Fill-up all the oils/filters and after having installed the assembled DB and made all the HT/LT connections correctly, start the engine. If every thing is in its place, there is no reason why it won’t fire in the first attempt. If doesn’t, with fuel/ign spark being there, the DB initial position needs to be reset by trial and error, or more scientifically.

15) Once the engine fires, set the throttle manually to @ 2000rpm and check for any oil leakages etc, particularly from the filter area. Correct as necessary. Let the engine warm-up at this pace till the fan comes on. Check and correct the DB Dwell (65*), Idling rpm (900) and Ign timing (7*BTDC) at this stage, IN THAT ORDER, taking care not to ‘twist’ the points to get the right dwell as most mechanics are prone to by way of shortcut. Instead, its fastening screw should be loosened and needful done. Again this screw should not be over tightened by exerting considerable downward force on the mounting plate, which easily distorts it and thus renders the Vacuum Advance Mechanism in effective.

16) Similarly while setting the Ign timing with a strobe gun, care should be taken to avoid false setting out of a ‘parallax’ error. Ensure that the flywheel timing mark is clearly visible by way of carefully holding a multi-layer piece of small ‘lint-free’ cloth wrapped around your finger and moistened with petrol. If still not good enough, it should be yellow-painted afresh with a suitable fine brush or other means.

17) ENSURE THAT THE TIMING HOLE IS PLUGGED BACK WITH ITS COVER – something most often given a go by. This plug is vital to prevent ingress of moisture/water and dust into the Clutch mechanism, resulting in slow but sure long-term damage to it.

18) With the engine so tuned thus far, take off the vacuum pipe at the DB end and rev it up to around 2000rpm. With the engine held at this speed, gently put a finger on and off the detached end of this pipe, to ‘feel’ the presence of a light vacuum. If there, put it back. If not, it means the Carb end of this port is blocked with combustion deposits. If not too stubborn, it can be freed by injecting some thinner into it, while the engine is running at this speed by a used hypodermic syringe, sometimes by forcing the solvent into it. Put he pipe back at the DB end once satisfied that the line is clear. In the process, check out all the Carb Vac pipes for any fraying or damage. Replace by OE quality piping wherever called for.

19) Similarly check for satisfactory operation of the ‘Second Butterfly’ of the Carb. This is a little tricky but once demo’d by a skilled Mechanic, it’s easy to do it yourself. Briefly it comprises revving up the engine again to @2000rpm and suddenly blocking the Carb top with your palm, simultaneously opening the throttle practically full with the other hand. If its mechanism is free and satisfactory, the engine will first tend to stall and then revup again as the II BF opens by its own Vacuum mechanism, which can also be seen to be happening. Take your blocking palm off and it would revup further. Let go of the throttle and repeat 2-3 times.