In
Manali and Leh
It’s best to park your car and walk around both these towns. They
are fun to explore on foot. In Leh you might need your car to go to the
various Gompas but otherwise everything is within walking distance.
If you do drive, then watch out for jaywalking tourists and stray animals.
In Manali, Israelis and Europeans on hired Bullets roar about the town
at breakneck speeds through narrow lanes and you need to use the horn
constantly around corners.
Manali
It's a good idea to relax in Manali for a day or two before starting your
formiddable trip north. Manali, with its pine forests and off-season hotel
discounts, is a joy to discover. The mall is a crowded area with restaurants
offering everything from South India Idli and dosas to Tibetian momos.
The German Bakery opposite the Nehru Park makes delicious apple pie and
the most amazing milk-coffee from freshly ground coffee beans.
|
| Tucked
away in the eastern corner of Jammu and Kashmir, Ladakh's capital city
Leh is definitely difficult to get to but the effort is well worth it.
You will need at least five days to a week to do Leh and its surrounding
areas justice.
Ladakh envelops you completely. Wander aimlessly, munch a ripe apple,
and greet all and sundry with a hearty 'Juley'! Leh market comes alive
in the evening as curio shops and handcraft emporiums light up their windows.
|
| A
bout permits - Everyone, except Ladakhis and Zansakris, need permits to
visit inner line areas like the Nubra Valley and the Pangong Tso. The procedure
to get a permit is to apply at the District Magistrate's Office that is
behind the polo ground. A simpler and more practical alternative is to pay
a travel agent Rs 100 per person and give him a list of places you want
to visit and he will obtain the permits within a day. Contact M. Yassin,
managing director, Hotel Tsomo-Ri, Fort Road Tel: 01982-53611/ 52271
Shanti Stupa - This stark white stupa with a golden top inaugurated in 1983
by the Dalai Lama. It lies above Changspa village and is a pleasant walk
of about 3km from the main bazaar.
Gompas
While Gompas appear similar, the road to each is the exciting part. The
most outstanding Gompas near Leh are :
Tikse - The most popular Gompa in Ladakh, this one is a 19km drive on the
road towards Manali. The Tikse Compa was founded in the 15th century. The
little Du-Khang (prayer hall) at the far end is pretty old and has faded
murals.
Hemis - The final approach to this Gompa 45km south east of Leh is a plethora
of colour as you pass mani walls and fields of green and yellow. The Gompa
itself is done up in various colours and along the edges of the main temples
are prayer wheels that spin at the slightest flick. The Hemis festival is
held during every June/early July over two days - do not miss it if you
happen to be in Leh at that time.
Chemrey - This old Gompa is on the way to Pangong Tso and do take some time
out to visit it. The main Du-khang, off the courtyard on the lower level,
boast a fine silver chorten and a set of ancient Tibetan texts whose title
pages are illuminated with opulent gold-and-silver calligraphy.
Khardung La - This pass' claim to fame is the fact that it is the worlds'
highest motorable road at 5603mts. The view to the top as phenomenal as
elsewhere and Ladakh but the top itself is rather disappointing.
Pangong Tso - Tso means lake and a trip to the Pangong Lake is something
you shouldn't miss. You will need a permit - get three copies made as one
each has to be deposited at the three check-posts en route. The road to
Pangong Tso runs left from the Karu encampment, 45km from Leh and goes past
the Chemrey Gompa. It slowly winds itself up the mountains to Chang La that
is at an altitude of 5599m. The army jawans stationed here will offer you
tea and breakfast. The valley that it descends to is a photographer's paradise
with its bubbling brooks and lush, green fields. The lake is at a distance
of 128km from the Karu turnoff and the drive takes around eight hours..
|
September 2001 