Pachmarhi
was ‘discovered’ by Captain John Forsyth in 1857. The local
guide however argues that the place was inhabited long before the British
came. It was just that the British took to the cool environs of the verdant
land and developed it into a hill retreat. In 1870 a military centre was
set up and at present the Indian Army retains a strong presence in this
well maintained cantonment.
For the tourist, there are interesting monuments of historical importance
like the Pandava Caves and sights like the Bee Falls. Pachmarhi’s
splendid location in the Satpura ranges also makes it an ideal kick-off
point for a trek into the nearby thickly forested areas.
Pandava Caves The name Pachmarhi is said to hail from five, 1000-year-old
caves reputed to be the ones in which the Pandavas hid during their
exile. Set above a beautifully landscaped garden, the caves are very roughly
carved. Recent excavations on top of the caves reveal evidence of an ancient
brick-built Buddhist stupa supposed to have been built during the reign
of Ashoka the Great.
Bison Lodge
The first house ever built in Pachmarhi, the Bison Lodge was used by Captain
Forsyth to survey and explore the surrounding forests. It is now a wildlife
and natural history museum. Built in 1862, the frontlet of the bison hung
during the christening still hangs above the main door. Inside the lodge
there are stuffed tigers and a huge bison. The museum there displays photographs
of Pachmarhi and samples of wood from the neighbouring forests. There is
no entrance charge to visit the museum but you are expected to jot down
your comments in the register for visitors kept at the reception. A free
wildlife film is shown in the open-air theatre every day except Monday.
Bee Falls There are several waterfalls - the Duchess Falls are easily
the grandest but the Bee Falls are the most accessible. From the entrance
gate it’s a 2km walk down to the top of the falls. If you’d rather
be driven down, the broken roads require 4x4 vehicles - Maruti Gypsys are
available to do the round trip for Rs 150. Private cars are not allowed
even if they are 4x4s. From the top it’s a further winding walk down
to the bottom of the falls. There are plans to build a concrete staircase
but as of now it’s a rough scramble. Descending is not so bad, but
it’s the return that will have you huffing and puffing. The Bee Falls
are spectacular and well worth the effort in getting there. It’s possible
to bathe in the falls but do watch out for slippery stones.
Nauka
Bihar If boating is a passion with you, the Nauka Bihar lake has boats
for rent and makes for a pleasurable outing in the evenings.
Handi Kho This is a deep valley on the way to Mahadeo. Please take
care of children as the railings have plenty of gaps. Local legend has it
that a big snake who was a demon in disguise was killed and buried here.
Mahadeo Temple A few years ago this place must have had a spectacular
setting and getting to the temple to seek Lord Shiva’s blessings must
have been a true test of piousness; but today it’s convenience galore.
A concrete pathway provides the pilgrim with a smooth walk right to the
entrance of the cave. Inside there is a pool of natural water and a naturally-formed
Shivaling. The priests tell you a dip in the pool is very good for your
health as the water flows through mountains, gathering all the nutrients
from the roots of trees before accumulating here. It is cold, dark and damp
inside the cave and most people have to bend and walk to avoid bumping their
heads. Do carry a torch.
Chauragarh This is 3 km from Mahadeo. You can trek up to the base
of the hill, but only experienced trekkers should attempt the climb. There
are 1300 steps to the summit. This is a place of pilgrimage, sacred to Shiva;
the local belief is that when a boon is granted, the pilgrim must make another
climb to the summit to leave a ‘trishul’ in thanksgiving.
A
good guide. . .
.
. . will make your stay in Pachmarhi an enjoyable experience. One very
good guide is Kishanlal Choudhary. He proudly states that his grandfather
and father were in the same profession and that he knows Pachmarhi in
and out. As the day progresses, you realise that this is no idle boast:
the man really knows his stuff. He has interesting anecdotes and makes
history come alive by putting it across as if he’s seen it with his
own eyes. Besides taking tourists for daily sightseeing, he also takes
groups for jungle treks. Kishanlal also enjoys a good rapport with the
adivasis in the jungle and if you’re looking for a few days of roughing
it out in the wild, with tigers and bears thrown in for free, then he’s
your man. He can be contacted via the Satpura Retreat hotel.
Mahadeo Temple A few years ago this place must have had a spectacular
setting and getting to the temple to seek Lord Shiva’s blessings must
have been a true test of piousness; but today it’s convenience galore.
A concrete pathway provides the pilgrim with a smooth walk right to the
entrance of the cave. Inside there is a pool of natural water and a naturally-formed
Shivaling. The priests tell you a dip in the pool is very good for your
health as the water flows through mountains, gathering all the nutrients
from the roots of trees before accumulating here. It is cold, dark and damp
inside the cave and most people have to bend and walk to avoid bumping their
heads. Do carry a torch.
March 2002 