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The
roads around Chikmagalur are very narrow, especially in the hills. Due
to the climate, they will always be moist if not completely wet. The moisture
coupled with the thick red mud makes the roads quite slippery —
exercise caution while going around corners or even on straights. At some
places there is just not enough room for two cars to pass and you may
need to back up a bit. The wind blows hard during the monsoons and sometimes
uproots trees, so you may come upon a tree blocking your path. But the
villagers usually clear this impediment in a jiffy.
Chikmagalur
essentially means ‘younger daughter’s town’ in the local
lingo. The same way that Hiremagalur (a town which is a little distance
away) means elder daughter’s town. Looking at the two towns, one
can safely assume that the king who gifted them to his girls was fonder
of the younger one.
While Hiremagalur is just a regular town, Chikmagalur stands out by virtue
of its surroundings. All around are the western ghats and in these gentle
hills are attractive places with fantastic views, pleasing weather and
ample flora and birdlife.
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Legends
surround Chikmagalur, like the one at Baba Budan Dev where two shrines
— one Hindu and one Muslim — stand side by side. Inside
the Muslim shrine lies the tomb of Shah Hazrat Jamal, who first brought
coffee to India. The Hindu temple is dedicated to Dattatraya Peeta. This
god of the Hindu
pantheon has three faces: Brahma, Vishnu and Maheshwara. The legend goes
that this god’s mother and father lived on a hill, which wasthen
called Chandradrona Parvata, and the mother Alyabai was a very dedicated
wife. Brahma, Vishnu and Maheshwara mentioned this fact to their wives
Saraswati, Laxmi and Parvati, respectively. Heavenly women were also prone
to intense same-gender jealousy like their counterparts on earth and they
decided to try and make Alyabai fall in her husband’s eyes. They
sent their husbands avisiting when Alyabai’s hubby happened to be
away. To cut a long story short, Alyabai made sure their plan backfired
and in turn made them beholden to her. In return, Alyabai ensured her
son had the faces of the three gods.
Ahead of Baba Budan Dev lie the Manayakadhara Falls, famous for washing
away your sins, more so if you leave an article of clothing behind; as
a result, there is a huge pile of discarded clothes near the falls. Since
these falls make their way through forests, the water is supposed to be
rich in natural minerals and has healing powers. Further away, on a hillock,
is a temple which King Wodeyar of Mysore would visit every Diwali to seek
an audience with Goddess Kali. He would then light a huge bonfire to signal
the start of Diwali celebrations to all his subjects in the valley below.
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