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How to Maintain Your Car?

FILTERS
An automobile engine has three vital filters that need cleaning or replacing regularly so that they can block out damage-causing dirt and other pollutants.

Air filter
Experienced drivers will know that if the engine response is subdued, it could be due to a choked air filter. Some air filters even have an indicator showing when replacement or cleaning is necessary. It is best to change the air filter at the recommended interval. If the car is being used in a very dusty environment, like a dirt track, then change the air filter twice during the recommended interval.

Oil filter
The oil filter should be changed with every oil change, because the residual dirty oil in the filter will contaminate the fresh new oil.

Fuel filters
A car has two fuel filters at the least (more for diesel) and these should be changed every 5000km to 7000km depending on the quality of the available fuel. If a lot of travel is done in areas where the purity of the fuel is suspect, it is advisable to change the filters at more frequent intervals.

Belts and hoses
Both should be given a periodic look over. Fraying, worn or glazed belts are best replaced by new ones as they are running on extended time and can give way anytime. The sameholds true for hoses and pipes that are brittle or feel too soft or too hard to the touch.

Electricals
A car's electrical system is divided into circuits all with different basic functions - ignition circuit, charging circuit, starter circuit, lighting circuit and accessory circuit.

All these circuits collectively use about 200 feet of colour-coded wire. Colour coding helps locate and repair faults with lesser difficulty - ideally,
this coding should be followed when any extra wiring is figured into the car.

The battery acts as a reservoir to supply current to the electrical system when the engine is not run-ning. It also requires to be fully charged to be able to supply the heavy cranking current required by the starter motor to get the engine running. The battery needs periodic maintenance, which will make it last longer (see box).

» If you plan to install aftermarket halogen headlights, remember to fit appropriate relays that will bear the load of the high current drawn by the high wattage bulbs.
» When you switch on the ignition, the battery light on the dashboard glows. This light should go off as soon as you start the engine. If it stays on, it means that there is a problem with the charging circuit - if not attended to immediately, the battery will be drained completely.
» Always replace a burnt-out fuse with another one of the same rating. If that burns out too, then get that particular circuit checked. Never ever short a fuse or use a higher ampere rated fuse - the fuse is there as a warning sign of problems elsewhere. Shorting a fuse can lead to a fire in the car due to short circuit.
» Get turn-indicator bulbs and other bulbs replaced as soon as they blow. They contribute greatly to your safety on the move.

Tyres and Suspension

Tyres have a certain life that largely depends on how gently (or harshly) they've been used. It is very risky to continue using tyres beyond their lifespan. Remember they are the vehicle's contact with the road and if anything goes wrong with them you are left with very little, if at all any, control.

Tyres tend to wear out unevenly and should be rotated every 5000km (see diagram). Periodic care and proper inflation go a long way in increasing tyre life (see box).

Wheel alignment and balancing also help reduce tyre wear. If you feel the car drifting to either side on a level road, or if there is excessive squeal from the tyres while turning, you need to get the wheels aligned. Ideally a wheel needs to be balanced each time the tyre is removed off the wheel.

Constant Velocity (CV) joints on the driveline from the gearbox to the front wheels in front-wheel-drive cars have axle boots that are filled with grease. Grease on the exterior of these boots means that the grease has leaked out and the dust that enters will ruin the joint. An indicator that the joint has been ruined is a rattling or clicking sound during turning manoeuvres and, in worst cases, on acceleration.

The main areas in maintaining a car have been covered here, but always keep an attentive lookout for something amiss with your vehicle.

Maintaining a car is not all things mechanical. It also means that you need to have all documents like insurance and RTO tax in order. Also, periodic Pollution Under Control (PUC) tests are not only an environmental obligation but also a legal requirement.

A well maintained car, preferably with a meticulously adhered-to service record, will not only be a pleasure to drive but will enjoy a good resale value in the used car market.

Yes, maintaining a car requires a certain amount of effort and a little indulgence, but if you do take the trouble to maintain your car, well it'll be smiles for many, many miles.

Maintenance check
DAILY
» Make a visual check of tyres for proper inflation. If tyre pressure seems improper, fill up to correct pressure immediately.

» In older cars, check oil level (half-full need not be topped).
» Before starting the engine, check that all lights on the instrument panel work properly.
» Once the engine is started, check that all lights go off.
Any light remaining on indicates a problem.

WEEKLY
» Check tyre pressures.
» Check the coolant level in the radiator.

MONTHLY
» Get the car serviced.
» At every service, have gearbox oil, coolant, windscreen washer fluid and brake fluid levels checked and topped up,
if necessary.
» Check functioning of all electrical equipment.
» Check battery terminals for corrosion and electrolyte level.

Every 5000km
» Change engine oil and filter.
» Check wheel alignment.
» Rotate tyres including the spare wheel in the rotation.

Every 10,000km
» Check CV joint bushes.
» Check wiper blades for wear and check windscreen washer nozzles.

Every 20,000km
» Change gearbox oil.
» Check gear lever bushes.
» Check suspension and steering tie-rod ends and ball joints.
» Tighten suspension components.

Safety checks
Carry out these checks every time you plan to take the car for a long journey exceeding 800km.

» Inflation in each tyre Fill air into all the tyres (including the spare wheel) to the specified pressure and then check the pressure again after an interval of 10 hours. The pressure should be the same. This ensures there are no leaks or slow punctures.
» Electricals Turn on the lights and walk around the car. All the lights should be working. Check both headlights for high and low beams.

» Put on the hazardwarning lights and ensure that all turn indicators are flashing properly.
» Get into the car and back it up to the wall, apply the brake and check if the brake lights are working with the help of the rearview mirror.
» Check that the cabin lights work. The cabin light should also work in the centre position when it warns against open or half-closed doors.
» Depress the horn. It should play instantly. An intermittent or weak sound indicates a loose connection or loose contacts.

» Brakes With the engine running but the car stationary, stomp on the brake pedal. It should feel firm under the foot and should not continue to sink as you press it.
» Drive the car and press the brake hard. The car should stop short, without veering left or right, with most of its weight transferring onto the nose.
» Park the car on an incline and apply the parking brake, the car should not roll.
» Windscreen The windscreen has to be clear and residue-free. Clean it from the inside too if need be.

» Use the windscreen washer - the spray should be full and powerful and covering the glass. If not, clean the nozzles with a pin and aim the spray so that it directs the fluid accurately.

Oil grades
Most lubricants are mineral based while some are synthetically formulated. Synthetic oils offer superior

lubrication and longer drain intervals but at the same time are much more expensive than mineral oils. What's vital is the grade. Grades are assigned by the Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE) and are numbers that indicate the stability of the oil at temperatures. Initially there used to be monograde oils like SAE 20, 30 or 40. Remember these are not actual temperatures and an SAE 40 oil would be able to handle higher temperatures than an SAE 20 oil. In winter, monograde oils with the rating of 0W or 10W would have to be used for stability at lower temperatures. Today we have multigrade oils that can handle summer as well as winter temperatures. Hence, for example 20W 40 means that the summer rating is 40 and the winter rating is 20W.

Again, it must be remembered that these are not actual temperatures but grades assigned by the SAE.

Get more
Follow the tips given below to get more from the:
Battery

» The battery terminals are prone to corrosion due to the acid inside the battery. They need to be cleaned regularly and coated with a layer of conductive jelly.
» Check the cells (six in all in a 12volt battery) of the battery and top-up with distilled water only, when required. If the level of water remains low, the acid becomes very concentrated and corrodes the plates.
» Get the specific gravity of the acid checked every three months or so.
» Never top-up with acid.
Tyres
» Keep tyres inflated to the recommended pressure. Underinflation will reduce fuel efficiency and lead to heat build-up at high speeds. Overinflation reduces grip.
» Rotate tyres regularly every 5000km or as recommended by the manufacturer.
» Never run a flat tyre. Change it immediately.
» Periodically check tyres for gravel and stone lodged in the treads.
» Avoid wheelspins and skids, they wipe off kilo-metres from the tyres' life.
Fuel
» Always drive in the correct gear.
» Avoid hard revving and harsh gear checking.
» Use specified additives as recommended by the manufacturer.
» Get the car tuned and timing checked as per service schedules.

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Related Articles:
Maintenance Tips
Preventive Maintenance Planner

Rishad Saam Mehta Source

May 2002

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