Some motorists who take very good care of the rest of their car
ignore the cooling system completely--except perhaps for a yearly
check of coolant level. This is unfortunate because the radiator and
various other cooling system components will deteriorate rapidly if
coolant is not renewed at regular intervals. Furthermore, if the systern
is not flushed periodically, cooling capacity will be lost as passages
clog with contaminants. Most manufacturers recommend yearly inspection
and pressure testing, accompanied by a back flush and refill every
two years. However, for the do-it- your self who doesn't have access
to back flushing equipment, a yearly drain, flush and refill is a
good idea. Before draining coolant, check the condition of all belts
and hoses. Look for cracking, swelling and oil or grease damage to
hoses. Pay particular attention to the area just behind the clamp.
Sometimes the clamp will dig its way into the hose. Black flecks in
the coolant are an indication of internal hose deterioration. Tests
indicate that most hoses last no longer than three or four years,
so regular replacement is a good idea regardless of the outside appearance.
The same is true of most conventional V-belts. It's difficult to judge
belt condition on the basis of appearance. Of course, any belts that
are cracked, glazed or shredded must be replaced, even if they are
less than four years old. When replacing belts, it is best to tension
thern using a gauge that is designed for this purpose. However, a
little push with your thumb in the centre of the belt's longest span
is better than no tension check at all. If you can deflect the belt
more than 15 to 20 mm. while applying moderate pressure, it is too
loose. You would need to tighten the belt. If the belt is left too
loose you would hear a high pitched squeeling noise from the engine
erratically. Also keeping mind that the belt should not be over tightned
this would cause a bearing failure and resultant damage to the driven
part. |
Once you've examined all the belts and hoses, remove the radiator
cap, run the engine until it is hot, and drain the coolant by opening
the petcocks in the radiator and engine block. If you can't loosen
the petcock valves, drain the engine and radiator by removing the
lower radiator hose. You can flush most of the dirt from the system
by alternately filling it, running the engine until the thermostat
opens, and draining it. Continue in this manner until the water runs
clear. Check the condition of your thermostat. It is most often found
under the housing. Some newer models locate thermostats in a housing
sealed by a cover that looks just like a radiator cap. To test the
thermostat, hang a thermometer in a pan of water and place it on the
stove. Suspend the thermostat in the water. Heat the water, noting
the temperature at which thermostat begins to open. If the thermostat
does not open at the temperature stamped on its body, it is defective
and must be replaced. |